Pitti Uomo 94 – Doppelgängers

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pitti uomo 94

Pitti Uomo 94 had a strong presence from Japan. Two well-dressed men in a Tonik like blue suit and Solaro.

Trends at Pitti Uomo 94

I cannot claim that Pitti Uomo 94 presented something totally new to me. Cut, colours, patterns and accessories look as something that I’ve seen before.

There are of course tendencies like a small neckerchief, linen, cream colours and faded green.

You also see an ever increasing amount of sneakers.

In regard to the suit short trousers, bare ankles and suede loafers are still de rigeur. Perhaps trousers in some cases have become more roomy. There is a push for that on the catwalk, so maybe the street have started to pick it up a bit.

That said I enjoy to follow the show. The peacock outrange has eased off. People dress more like people now, although with a lot more attention to details.

I have a bunch of photos with me home. When I have processed them I will show them here. In the meantime you can find more photos at my Instagram account Sartorial Notes.

More photos from Pitti Uomo 94

pitti uomo 94

The Castillo brothers of Man 1924 at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

pitti uomo 94

The Zaremba team on the street.

pitti uomo 94

Berlin made-to-measure firm Maximillian Mogg in tuxedos at the Plaza Uomo event.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Classical Portrait Painting Exists Today

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Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

Classical portrait painting by Jonas Barlyng.

Rare classical portrait painting

Portrait painting today often includes a context or a reference to the person’s life or ethnicity. Classical, pure portrait painting founded in the 19th Century is less common.

Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

A reader of mine, Jonas Barlyng, performs the rare art of classical portrait painting.

This week he just finished a portrait of Butler. Only contextual feature is the evening wear, bespoke, of course.

At the atelier

Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

The painter and his model.

I visited Jonas and Butler at Jonas’ atelier in downtown Copenhagen, and I went to the reception at Butler’s house, when they unveiled the painting. Both Butler and Jonas held a speech.

Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

Jonas uses a technique of long, swift brush strokes that results in a clear picture at a distance. If you stand closer to the painting sharpness dissolves. It’s magic, in a way.

Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

A new side of Butler

Classical Portrait Painting barlyng

Usually, in photos, Butler looks somewhat servere and tough. Jonas’ painting adds softness to his expression as if Butler has a hidden gentle side as well. I like that.

Jonas’ role model is the deceased Danish portrait painter Herman Vedel (1875-1948). He is very fond of American expatriate and portrait painter John Singer Sargent (1856-1925) too.

Price for a small portrait starts at 25.000 DKK, Jonas tells me. It equals 3.350 euro.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

The Best Menswear Shopping that You Find in Munich

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Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich

The search for the best menswear shopping in Munich starts at Ed. Meier.

Ed. Meier began as a shoemaker

Munich is not as strong as Vienna on shoemaking. For instance, there is no Scheer in Munich.

The supply of fine shoes and fine clothing is vast in the Bavarian capital, though.

I like Eduard Meier (Ed. Meier) at Brenner Strasse 10 in particular. The shop started out as a shoemaker in the 19th Century. In 1895 it got a royal warrant from the Royal Bavarian Houshold.

In the latter part of the 20th Century the store added fine menswear clothing and accessories to their shoe collection.

Related to British stores

Ed. Meier reminds me somewhat of the old independent menswear stores in London’s Jermyn Street like New & Lingwood, Harvie & Hudson and Turnbull & Asser.

However, Cordings might be their closest cousin. Both stores place great weight on classic country clothing.

That said, Ed. Meier appears a bit more exclusive and refined than Cordings. For instance, Ed. Meier’s strong goodyear welted shoe collection sets the Munich store apart from Cordings.

Shoes are about 600 euros, and jackets are about the same.

Photos from Ed. Meier in Munich

Some photos from Ed. Meier’s store in central Munich.

Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in MunichEd Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich Ed Meier - The Best Menswear Shopping in MunichEd Meier Brenner Strasse - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich

Max Dietl in Munich

Max Dietl - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich

Max Dietl is the luxury retailer of menswear in Munich. The shop at Max-Joseph Platz is full of suits and smart causal wear from Brioni, Kiton, Stefano Ricci and the like.

They also offer bespoke suits made on the premises. At the moment they cannot take in new clients, though.

Max Dietl - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich

Max Dietl is pricey. Bespoke suits and made-to-measure suits from the Italian makers run for about 6.000 euros for a two-piece suit.

Max Dietl - The Best Menswear Shopping in Munich

Dieter Betz in Munich

Dieter Betz Munich shopping men

Dieter Betz Couture not far away is more accessible. They specialize in custom made garments, both made-to-measure and bespoke. Price for a bespoke suit is around 3.000 euros.

Dieter Betz Munich shopping men

Dieter Betz Couture is exclusive shopping too but not the type of conspicuous consumption that you enroll yourself in, when entering Max Dietl.

Dieter Betz Munich shopping men

Unützer in Stollbergstrasse

In the end a short note on Unützer in Stollbergstrasse. The shop has a nice selection of smart casual wear and shoes (for instance John Lobb) on first floor.

Best menswear shops in Munich

I believe the four stores above are in the top spots, when we talk about the best menswear stores in Munich. Feel free to correct me or to add more stores to the list.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

More Menswear Winter Style

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menswear winter style

Menswear winter style in a bespoke polo coat.

Camel hair overcoat

Winter won’t loosen its grip on Scandinavia. It’s quite annoying if it wasn’t for the situation that you can keep on nice, heavy overcoats like this bespoke polo coat by Francesco Guida. He cut it from a length of camel hair cloth that nobody wanted on the store.

I pair the overcoat with a tweed jacket, heavy flannels, shell cordovan shoes and carpincho gloves. The questionable knit hat is cashmere, afterall.

Menswear winter style in a rain mac

An old suit of mine from a now retired Copenhagen tailor has been on the hanger for a few years. The trousers have had a rip. A seamstress rapaired the trousers with a piece of fusing. It is not a very elegant or sturdy solution I have realized. However, they are strong enough for a photo shoot. The overcoat is a secondhand new Burburry rain mac in gabardine wool that I bought in Vienna.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Not A Polished Look

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polished look

Weekend style is not a polished look to me. Bespoke raglan overcoat, bespoke greyish Harris Tweed jacket underneath, cashmere scarf, blue jeans, and duckfeet shoes.

A couple of photos from recent weeks. As you can see I’m not good a very a very polished look, perhaps because I feel that I’m not perfect enough for that. Still, I need a haircut, I admit that.

polished look

Bespoke overcoat (Guida) and bespoke suit (Vestrucci), silk scarf, bespoke adelaide shoes (Kielman).

Photography: Sartorial Notes

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