Pitti Uomo i Florence is a show. Most people dress up, often exaggerating. A main problem is that so much clothes look brand new. You cannot have style in brand new clothes. Impossible. You become a puppet, a clown.
Ready to wear, especially, needs a lot of breaking-in. Bespoke becomes your own swiftly. You don’t have to throw it around like Fred Astaire did, when Anderson & Sheppard had shipped him a new suit. Yet, the point is clear: You & your clothes must be one for style to appear.
The man in photo was the best dressed I saw at Pitti Uomo 103. Everything about his look is fluent. The colours, the textures, the fit, the tab collar, the tie knot, the watch. He also has strong sense of tradition.
Surely, he is dresses up but effortlessly. There is no friction.
Some of my menswear photos from Pitti Uomo 2022 in Firenze. More on my Instagram Account.
Trends at Pitti Uomo 94
I cannot claim that Pitti Uomo 94 presented something totally new to me. Cut, colours, patterns and accessories look as something that I’ve seen before.
There are of course tendencies like a small neckerchief, linen, cream colours and faded green.
You also see an ever increasing amount of sneakers.
In regard to the suit short trousers, bare ankles and suede loafers are still de rigeur. Perhaps trousers in some cases have become more roomy. There is a push for that on the catwalk, so maybe the street have started to pick it up a bit.
That said I enjoy to follow the show. The peacock outrange has eased off. People dress more like people now, although with a lot more attention to details.
I have a bunch of photos with me home. When I have processed them I will show them here. In the meantime you can find more photos at my Instagram account Sartorial Notes.
More photos from Pitti Uomo 94
Photography: Sartorial Notes
A take on Pitti Uomo 93
What is fashion depends on the eyes that look. So when I summarize what’s happening in men’s fashion at the Pitti Uomo 93 fair in Florence, it’s a perspective, a view with my classically oriented eyes. For your information.
Large slip-on overcoats
There are tendencies for more generous cuts. You notice the development in overcoats. In the sartorial department, I have noticed almost oversized overcoats, often with raglan sleeves, not unlike the big coats from the start of the 1990s. Pitti Uomo 93 in Florence documented the trend of big coats.
Corduroy and Velvet
Coats and overcoats in corduroy. Another trend in sartorial men’s fashion in the winter. I have thought myself of getting a corduroy coat made up. Corduroy is symbolic, though, referring to books, big furniture, art, and school teachers in the 1970s. The film director Wes Anderson illustrates a modern approach to corduroy and velvet.
Earth tones are a signifacant trend in sartorial menswear in winter. Pitti Uomo 93 was a showcase. There were many shades of brown and green there, both among the exhibitors at the fair and on those who visited the event. Earth colors influenced all components from pullovers and ties to jackets, coats and hats.
Sneakers continue the march forward. However, leather shoes are still in use, luckily. There are many double sole shoes and brogue shoes in the winter.
Soft jackets, which people in the trade confusingly call “deconstructed jackets,” continue their dominance. Unlike the slim fit fashion, which is about to be supplemented by more roomy cuts, I do not think the softly designed jackets get competition from structured jackets. On the contrary, you will probably see even more jersey jackets onwards.
Beanie knit hats
A beanie knit hat, the beanie, will not die. You also wear it with classic sartorial clothes, if it’s cold.
If you do not carry a knit hat on your head, you could go for a felt hat with a good wide brim. They are also popular.
Photography: Sartorial Notes