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The Best Dressed at Pitti Uomo 92 – Part 2

June 25, 2017 by Torsten

Pitti Uomo 92: Faiyaz Amlani and Erik Mannby in the patio at the launch of Pomella trousers.

Don’t trust fashion experts

Fresh photos from Pitti Uomo 92.

I notice that fashion experts, who participated in the event, can spot numerous trends. Honestly, I don’t always find their judgement trustworthy. You have to look at more seasons to find a development, I would say. Shoes like suede loafers and trainers, trousers with turn-ups and skimpy length, and fabrics like seersucker, linen Fresco and Solaro have been around, since I was at Pitti Uomo for the first time six years ago. I cannot remember not to have seen accessories such as bracelets and neckerchiefs.

And, that is pretty much the point about Pitti Uomo. It is a festival of classic clothing. Although new designs, fabrics and items appear at each fair, they appear within the the boundaries of classic menswear, that is, the lounge suit.

Butler and Giorgio Giangiulio

Patrik Löf of Skoaktiebolaget

Gianluca Migliarotti

Gianluca Migliarotti, film director, and now creator of Pommella trousers, wearing a bespoke olive linen suit.

Bernhard Roetzel and Butler

Menswear author Benrhard Roetzel in a seersucker suit together with Butler, who sports a seersucker suit as well (from Steven Hitchcock), though of a wool-silk blend instead of cotton.

Roman Zaczkiewicz of Szarmant

Representative of Justo Giméno

The teba jacket.

Yasuto Kamoshita of Camoshita

Maciej Zaremba

Maciej Zaremba, owner of the Zaremba tailoring house, in seersucker.

Check out the first batch of photos here.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

The Best Dressed at Pitti Uomo 92 – Part 1

June 18, 2017 by Torsten

Pitti Uomo 92: Samir Imran in a made-to-measure blue suit.

Aspirational Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo 92 has just ended. The large menswear fair in Florence attracts a lot of ambitious brands from Italy and other countries and buyers from all over the world. Moreover, you have the press.

The visitors

In regard to foreign attendees the top 10 list is as follows: Germany, Japan, Spain, United Kingdom, The Netherlands, China, France, Switzerland, Turkey, and USA.

Finding classic style

I brought my camera once again to shoot classic style attire. There is a lot of that in Pitti Uomo, although the Florentine heat tends to force the jacket away, so that many people just wear pants and a shirt.

Style trends

I didn’t notice much in regard to new classic styles on the street. Numerous men wore linen suits and panama hats. Many sockless feet in suede loafers. Those styles are not exactly new moves compared to last year or the year before that. I met slightly less silly classic clothes, you know, exaggerations to attract cameras. Could be that that trick is worn out.

Pitti Uomo 92: Samir Imran in a tobacco linen suit.

Pitti Uomo 92: Benedikt Fries in a light grey suit and panama hat.

Pitti Uomo 92: Herbert Stricker in a bespoke azur blue jacket, white pants and blue loafers.

Pitti Uomo 92: Yukio Akamine in a bespoke double breasted tobacco linen suit.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Portraits of Well-Dressed Men

February 7, 2017 by Torsten

Well-dressed men, and this chap, Eduardo De Simone, was one of the best I saw in Pitti Uomo. Simply relaxed and stylish

I would not say that I fancy all of the present outfits. Some are too perfect to my taste. In comparison with most men all men in the photos here are very well-dressed though.

Maciej Zaremba

Leonardo Bugelli

Benedikt of Shibumi

Erik Mannby of E-F-V Clothing

Butler in his green 3-piece Steven Hitchcock suit

Technically, very well done. Yet, I prefer the style of the man in first photo. I find it more relaxed and elegant. To me this style is at the the risk of becoming too polished and too studied.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Churchill’s Romper Suit and Siren Suit

February 1, 2017 by Torsten

Winston Churchill’s siren suit is one of those garments that falls into the category “brilliant & nuts”.

From a boiler suit to a siren suit

The story goes that Winston Churchill noticed that bricklayers at his Chartwell Estate wore a heavy boiler suit. Next he went to his shirtmaker Turnbull & Asser asking them to make a similar garment from a suit fabric. Winston Churchill was so thrilled with the result that he ordered a batch of siren suits in different fabrics.

The origin of the name

The famous prime minister called his one-piece suit a “romper suit”. People dubbed it a siren suit though. When the sirens in London warned about bombers during WWII, Winston Churchill and citizens of London would swiftly put on a lightweight one-piece suit, “the siren suit”, before going to a bomb shelter.

Pitti Uomo made me think about “the onesie”. A guy there wore a garment that seemed influenced by Winston Churchill’s design invention. I think he did it well. The belt was a good addition that shaped the garment a bit more.

A classic. Churchill’s velvet romper suit. Photo: Science Museum, London

If you want to see the real deal then visit Turnbull & Asser next time you are in Jermyn Street. In the cellar of the famous shirtmaker you can gaze at a velvet siren suit made for Churchill by Turnbull & Asser, probably as a sort of substitute for a green velvet smoking jacket. The garment is one of three romper suits left from Winston Churchill’s wardrobe.

Pitti Uomo Overcoats that go Beyond Navy and Charcoal

January 30, 2017 by Torsten

Pitti Uomo overcoats. Nobleman in a long grey overcoat.

When you cannot imagine more suits or sport coats you would like to order at the tailor, you turn to overcoats. A new field surfaces. You realize there’s a huge variation in men’s overcoats. The navy blue and charcoal species are just the beginning.

Trends in Pitti Uomo overcoats

Pitti Uomo is a good place to look for inspiration. Both on people, who attend the fair, and on dummies at the stands you can notice interesting fabrics, cuts and design details. In regard to fashion trends, which of course are of minor importance, though nonetheless of value to follow, you see a lot of overcoats in urbanized tweed, that is shepherd’s check, dogtooth and the like in subdued shades. The influence of military attire is also present in overcoats. The British Warm in particular has an impact at the moment.