The many possibilities of the fabric
The more you know about the suit, the more interesting becomes what is the best fabric for suits. The suit fabric is a field where you can vary the blue and gray suit endlessly. By comparison the design, that is pockets, buttons, vents, cuffs and so on, is a field with a number of relatively clear options.
The suit’s purpose should guide
The use function must lead to the choice of fabric for suits. Is it a day-to-day suit? Is there a party suit? Is it a winter suit? Etcetera.
The fabric has physical properties …
In this regard, notice that suit fabrics behave differently. Old tailors tend to refer to these different physical attributes as “the hand of cloth”. More specifically, they talk about the fabric’s nap, crispness, smoothness, and breathability, all properties that are affected by the fibers used, spinning, weaving and finishing of the fabric.
… and symbolic properties
The physical properties of the cloth are loaded with symbolic properties formed by history. Some fabrics look formal suited for a director’s suit. Others appear eccentric and could be a good match for a selfmade man businessman.
The attractiveness of a fabric’s physical and symbolic properties may vary between countries. For example, in the world of bespoke tailoring, Englishmen tend to fancy suit fabrics with a bit textural interest, whereas American clients tend to prefer plain fabrics.
Fabric for suits – rules of thumb
Generally speaking, coarse, lighter and patterned cloth is more informal than dark, smooth and solid cloth.
Another rule of thumb is that the more unusual a fabric for suits, the more dandified and the less suitable for traditional business use and companionship is the fabric. For example, a traditional chalkstripe suit should be considered a little eccentric today simply because it has become rare.
Most suitings are twill
The two basic weaves of fabric for suits are a plain weave and a twill weave. Especially the latter occurs in many variations and can be recognized by the diagonal ridges in the surface of the fabric. In addition to a plain weave and a twill weave, there is the refined jacquard weave that is not normally used in suitings.
Fabric fibers – wool is the starting point
In general, suiting is wool. Flax, silk, kid mohair and cotton, in blends too, sometimes make up suitings as well. Cashmere is only used for jackets and overcoats, not pants.
Most suitings are woven from smooth yarns, that is, wool that is combed smoothly before it is spun to yarns. Suitings can also be woollens, that is, a fabric made of rough yarns. Tweeds and many flannels, for example, will be of woollen yarns. Worsteds are usually more durable than woollens, which, in turn, are more warm.
Cloth weight is important, but …
Heavy fabric drapes more quietly and is more durable than lightweight fabric. Everything else alike. For fibers, spinning and twist of yarns, fabric weaving and finishing also affects the result. For example, a hard twist of yarn strings will make the fabric stiffer and more fun draping while the fabric becomes less insulating and scratches more. And for example, thin wool fibers (high Super numbers) make fabric more smooth and soft, but also more uneasy.
Typical fabric weight for a tailored fall-to-spring habit will currently be 300 to 380 grams per day. square meter fabric. The bar habits in the stores are usually 220 to 300 grams per day. square meters. If you go to the tailor, the weight of the fabric will often be stated in English ounces, oz.
Examples of gram conversion per m2 (gsm) to ounces:
300 gsm = 11 oz.
320 gsm = 11.5 oz.
340 gsm = 12 oz.
350 gsm = 12.5 oz.
370 gsm = 13 oz.
380 gsm = 13.5 oz.
400 gsm = 14 oz.
18 classic habitats
Let’s look at 18 classic designs and weaving of habitats, both widespread and unusual. The focus is on their visual effect, more than the physical characteristics. For example, a crayon-stripped fabric may appear in a long-flanned product and a smooth combed napkin that has quite different physical properties.
fabric for suit serge
If there is a fabric number one for the suit, it is serge or serges. The name includes a chipped woven fabric in comb nets. Serges is used in most coke-gray and navy blue habits.
2. Silk bone
fabric for suede leg
Herringbones, as the English say, herringbones, as we do, are the first deputy serges, if we talk about navy and coke-gray habits. One can regard the herringbone as the tooth more noble than serges and better suited for eg a dark evening habit. Technically, herring fuel is a broken twill weave.
fabric for suits hopsack
Hopsack (panama) is a coarse canvas binding. It carries a square effect to the texture not unlike a curve bond. It is traditionally frequently used for a blue blazer, one can also be used as a fabric for suits. Depending on the gravity, a hopsack may look more informal than a serges.
4. Needle strips
stop for suede needle strap
Needle strips (pin stripes).
The striped gray or blue suit is the big old chef’s fabric for suits. Stripes signal power and influence. Such is the tradition. Needle strips consist of thin stripes made of small tight “needle stitch” in the fabric.
fabric for suits chalk stripes
If you are a very powerful man, the stripes grow from needle streaks to chalk strips, chalk stripes. These stripes are the wider, imitating tailor’s white chalk. Crochet stripes are often seen in fabric with flannel woven for double-rowed suits, but are often seen on slippery camels for three-piece single-row suits.
fabric for suits chalkstripe chalk strips
The Greek shipowner Aristotle Onassis (1906-1975) in a double-row chalk stripe suit.
6. Glen Check
fabric for suits
Glen checks or glenurquhart checks, in the fashion world known as Prince of Wales, although Prince of Wales really refers to glen checks in big red-brown tern. The above example carries a blue check.
Glen check is a classic English tweed weave, which once again functions as a (discreet) pattern in blue and gray habits.
fabric for suit birdseye
Birdseye, small dots with holes in.
An English specialty in classic habitats is birdseye, gouted by connoisseurs. Like herringbone, can transform a navy habit for a noble evening habit.
8. Pinhead (nailhead)
fabric for suit two and two
Pinhead (nailhead) is another weave that can give a bit of a single color navy or coke-gray habit. Based on the combination of light and dark yarn, a symmetrical small-pointed surface is created in the fabric.
fabric for suits hairline
Hairline is an almost forgotten but still relevant way of varying a blue or gray habit. Hairline has a discreetly changing effect depending on how different colors the yarns have.
10. Sharkskin (pick and pick)
fabric for suits gray sharkskin
Sharkskin (Pick and Pick). Photo: Dugdale
The classic twill weave can be varied with light and dark yarn strings. Then you get sharkskin (pick and pick), where the oblique grooves in the texture are more pronounced in narrow zigzag chains and create a chilling effect. Another alternative to the sergeshabitten.
fabric for suits
The simple check-in.
The creative man’s play with the conservative gray and blue habit rarely results in a simple overcheck on a single-colored background.
13. Barathea (Twilled Hopsack)
fabric for smoking and tuxedo
Barathea. Photo: Dugdale
Barathea is really the traditional drug for smoking and skirts. The fabric is a hopsack that is woven, so it has a twill effect over diagonally walking grooves in both right and left directions. The idea is, the fabric’s texture reflects the evening’s artificial light less hard than a smooth weave. In addition, the weaving is relatively open and breathable.
fabric to suit flannel
Flannel (flonel). Photo: Fox Flannel
The lovely long-sleeved soft flannel fabric is a super classic in the wardrobe, both in solid gray and as a base for a chalk-stripped gray, blue or brown habit. Kardergarns flannel is the most delicate and fragile and comb-yarn flannel that has made the surface scratched, the more durable and tough version.
fabric for suits gabardine
Gabardine is a classic chic weaving, steep and dense, and preferred in, for example, waistcoats, as gabardine scoures dirt well. Although gabardine both feels and is robust, it may be drapématic
15. Hanefjed (houndstooth, dogtooth, pied-de-poule)
fabric for suits hanefjed Houndstooth (dogtooth)
Hanefjed (houndstooth, dogtooth). Photo: Dugdale
Tweed has lent the male fancy pattern to fabric for the suit. The result may look slightly eccentric depending on the color difference in the yarn strings. But again an opportunity to vary the expression in the classical habit. Hanefjed is also called houndstooth, dogtooth and pied-de-poule.
16. Pepper and Salt
habit pepper and salt
Pepper and Salt.
Twill weaving with clear contrast, typically in the gray color spectrum, between yarns in shots and chains. Can recall a blurred pinhead. Normally only for winter habits.
fabric for suits corkscrew
Like a herringbone weave, the corkscrew is a broken twill, but flatter and wider in the lines and often with more constriction in the yarns. Possibility of winter habits.
18. Cavalry Twill
cavalry twill habit and pants fabric
Cavalry Twill, riding elastic. Photo: Abraham Moon
Rideelastic, you call prosaic cavalry twill in Danish, referring to the flexibility of the fabric and the traditional use of the fabric for riding pants. The grooves in the solid twill fabric are steep and like flat in it. One can make a solid habit of cavalry twill, but not a traditional prey habit. Cavalry twill is generally the most common for pants.