Bespoke John Lobb shoes in napped nubuck

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I am not the one, who spends 3.348 Pounds Sterling on a pair of shoes. That is too steep for me. I prefer lesser known – and more accessible – makers .

However, I know a gentleman, who doesn’t hesitate to climb Everest. Above his latest purchase from John Lobb on St. James in London, a pair of nubuck shoes with a napped suede finish or “medium brown repello calf brogue oxford caps”, as the invoice states.

Source: The Journal of Style

Great coat backs

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… and not so great trousers backs.

Slimfit fashions are dangerous. Even slender types get caught by it, literally. Above an Itailan man in a stylish overcoat and narrow flannel trousers, which are so narrow in the lower legs that they are stretched by the calves.

The stout man in the other photo also wears a well cut coat in the right short length for his build. However, the slim flannel trousers seem to pull under the vents. It would have been more elegant, if they were hanging in a slightly curved line.

That said, both men dress very well in my opinion. Masters make mistakes too.

Source: The Journal of Style in Florence

Staying dry in Florence

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Lightweight umbrellas at Pitti Uomo in Florence. The gentleman in the lower photo is Jeremy Hackett of Hackett, who runs a large stand at Pitti Uomo.

Visiting Hackett’s stand, I thought about what the Hackett style is. I came to the conclusion that it is a sort of British edition of Ralph Lauren. The Hackett style has similar connotations to old upper class life and fine universities, though more youthful and fun loving than the Ralph Lauren style, which can be so polished and brute.

Source: The Journal of Style

Sartoria Guglielmo Rofena in Milan

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I’ve had difficult time locating bespoke tailor Guglielmo Rofena in the old city center of Milan. Somehow street names haven’t corresponded to my maps.

In summer I gave up. This time I was about to give up again, and I was on my way back to Stazione Centrale, when I found myself walking on Via M. Gonzaga, the street of Sartoria Rofena.

I began looking for a tailor’s shopwindow, only to spot a bell with a small sign saying “Sartoria Guglielmo Rofena”. I shouldn’t be  surprised. Milan tailors A. Caraceni and Mario Pecora have their workshops in appartments as well.

Guglielmo Rofena himself was out of town. Instead I was greeted by Antonio and Sara, two tailors, who work for mr. Rofena.

“Fatto a mano,” Antonio said.

Indeed, everything indicated that I was in a true tailor’s shop, although I did see some chest pieces and collars on a tailcoat and a jacket, which had had the pad stich machine. On other jackets, the same parts were stiched by hand.

The construction techniques, the gentle, yet defined shoulder and the slender silhuet reminded me of A. Caraceni and Nocito. Like them Rofena is far from bubble tailoring Naples style.

Sartoria Guglielmo Rofena has a website: www.sartoriarofena.it

Source: The Journal of Style

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