Search Results for: lobb

The Versatile Bold Suit

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Butler makes things clear. There is no hesitation in his style. Few would dare to ask their tailor to make up a royal blue double breasted suit like the one he is wearing in these photos.

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It’s a shame. Butler’s Dormeuil mohair suit, crafted by Steven Hitchcock in London, is not only smashing.

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It is more versatile than you would think it is. Because it is not just a suit. Thanks to light shade buttons, the jacket works as a blue summer blazer as well. Above and below Butler pairs the blazer with plain white cotton trousers and light blue jeans.

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The dark red double monks are from John Lobb (Hermès, RTW), and Crockett & Jones have made the blue suede tassel loafers. Shirts are from Napoli Su Misura and Sean O’Flynn.

Source: The Journal of Style

Oliver Moore Bespoke Shoes in New York

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It is somewhat puzzling that real shoemakers are so rare in Manhattan. The place is huge and rich, and people walk a lot down streets and avenues. There ought to be a demand for several traditional shoe craftsmen.

That said, the one I found, Oliver Moore, situated in the retail shop Tru-Form Shoes at Lexington Avenue, is a real shoemaker for sure. You just have to pass through the front shop with fine ready-to-wear shoes to talk to owners Paul Moorefield and Joan Silverman, and they will take you down steps to a basement, which reveals a genuine workshop.

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Their small team of craftsmen bring the shoes through all the traditional steps of bespoke shoemaking. They will measure the customers’ feet noting peculiarities, and they will create an individual wooden last.

Bespoke-Shoes-Oliver-Moore-The-Journal-of-Style-2[Welting shoes by hand]

Bespoke-Shoes-Oliver-Moore-The-Journal-of-Style-4[Trial shoes]

They will also make a pair of trial shoes to be worn at home for some days, before they build the actual pair of shoes. As many readers will know, a famous firm like John Lobb in St James’s skips this step of making a pair of trial shoes.

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Like most bespoke shoemakers and craftsmen in general, Paul and Joan don’t advertise with famous people in the customer list but I found that author Tom Woolfe is there.

Bespoke-Shoes-Oliver-Moore-The-Journal-of-Style-6[Half loafers, half monks, an old pair of bespoke shoes]

Bespoke-Shoes-Oliver-Moore-The-Journal-of-Style-7[Old pair of bespoke summer shoes in braided leather]

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The first pair of bespoke shoes including lastmaking is 3.300 USD. Subequent orders are 600 or 700 USD less, as far as I remember.

Photos: The Journal of Style

Versatile linen suits

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Before ordering a new suit, I like to think about, how jacket and trousers might form part of a different dress than the suit in question. Versality of suit pieces can be useful, for instance for travelling, because you can minimize the wardrobe.

Sometimes the search for versatility doesn’t make sense. Jacket and trousers can be linked together completely. It happens with a striped suit, typically.

However, solid suits, especially informal models, are less coded. Jacket and trousers may live on their own finding new friendships.

Look how well “Butler” does it.

The tools are two linen suits from Napoli su Misura, a bespoke Italian tailor. The ivory is a three-piece double breasted, the brown a three-piece single breasted. Note the slips on the vests, which take the colour of the other suit.

If you go through the possiblities the suits give you, you get an amount of choices, maybe not fully convincing all of them:

  1. Two-piece all brown
  2. Three-piece all brown
  3. Two-piece all ivory
  4. Three-piece all ivory
  5. Two-piece brown jacket & ivory trousers
  6. Two-piece ivory jacket & brown trousers
  7. Three-piece brown jacket, brown vest & ivory trousers
  8. Three-piece brown jacket, ivory vest & brown trousers
  9. Three-piece brown jacket, ivory vest & ivory trousers
  10. Three-piece ivory jacket, brown vest & brown trousers
  11. Three-piece ivory jacket, brown vest & ivory trousers
  12. Three-piece ivory jacket, ivory vest & brown trousers

9. and 10. are favorites of Butler.

“I’m vertically challenged, and vest and trousers of same colour will give extra optical height,” he explains smiling.

Shirts are from Napoli su Misura as well, and nubuck shoes are from John Lobb.

Source: The Journal of Style at Charlottenlund Castle

Sartorial meet-up in Copenhagen – Photos

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Gentleman-Cycling-Copenhagen-The-Journal-of-StyleI had been thinking about it for a year. Finally, I acted, and last week we (people enthusiastic about tailoring and classic stuff in Copenhagen) had a meet-up.

I did try to establish dress rules for the evening of a white shirt and black shoes but few would bother to follow them. The lawyer on the bike did, though. Now retired tailor Bent Wennerwald has made the blue suit.

Bespoke-Hitchcock-Jacket-The-Journal-of-StyleMany readers will recognize this man. I cannot mention his real name but he is wearing a cashmere jacket from Harrisons’s Saltire collection. Like the heavy cream white flannel trousers it is made by Steven Hitchcock in London.  Shoes are from John Lobb, St. James.

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Handmade-brown-derby-shoes-The-Journal-of-StyleAnother participant, who couldn’t care about my dress rules but did very well nonetheless. He wears a double breasted suit from vintage flannel made by Peter Undén and caramel coloured handmade shoes.

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Brummell-Snuff-The-Journal-of-StyleSnuff from venerable Fribourg & Treyer, like Brummell would want it to be.

Sartoria-Ripense-The-Journal-of-StyleVery nice back on a bespoke suit from Sartoria Ripense in Rome.

Velvet-jacket-The-Journal-of-styleMichael C. G. Iversen in blue velvet jacket and paisley pink tie donning the most dandified dress of the night.

Source: The Journal of Style

Foster and Son: The lesser known London shoemaker

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Foster and son lastmaking

The making of the last at Foster & Son

Most people, who are interested in fine shoes have heard about John Lobb. Many will also be able to mention Cleverley. Less people know Foster & Son, even though they are placed on the same level as John Lobb and Cleverley. In fact, their lastmaker Terry Moore is regarded by some connoisseurs as the world’s best lastmaker.

Not long ago I paid them a visit in the Jermyn Street store, which also contains a workshop on first floor. The owner Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson showed me around.

Photos: The Journal of Style

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