Before ordering a new suit, I like to think about, how jacket and trousers might form part of a different dress than the suit in question. Versality of suit pieces can be useful, for instance for travelling, because you can minimize the wardrobe.
Sometimes the search for versatility doesn’t make sense. Jacket and trousers can be linked together completely. It happens with a striped suit, typically.
However, solid suits, especially informal models, are less coded. Jacket and trousers may live on their own finding new friendships.
Look how well “Butler” does it.
The tools are two linen suits from Napoli su Misura, a bespoke Italian tailor. The ivory is a three-piece double breasted, the brown a three-piece single breasted. Note the slips on the vests, which take the colour of the other suit.
If you go through the possiblities the suits give you, you get an amount of choices, maybe not fully convincing all of them:
- Two-piece all brown
- Three-piece all brown
- Two-piece all ivory
- Three-piece all ivory
- Two-piece brown jacket & ivory trousers
- Two-piece ivory jacket & brown trousers
- Three-piece brown jacket, brown vest & ivory trousers
- Three-piece brown jacket, ivory vest & brown trousers
- Three-piece brown jacket, ivory vest & ivory trousers
- Three-piece ivory jacket, brown vest & brown trousers
- Three-piece ivory jacket, brown vest & ivory trousers
- Three-piece ivory jacket, ivory vest & brown trousers
9. and 10. are favorites of Butler.
“I’m vertically challenged, and vest and trousers of same colour will give extra optical height,” he explains smiling.
Shirts are from Napoli su Misura as well, and nubuck shoes are from John Lobb.
Source: The Journal of Style at Charlottenlund Castle