In the 1990s terrible grunge fashions and glamour ruled. The designer Hedi Slimane changed that by reviving the suit, I was once told.
It is not that simple probably but it makes sense, when you hear that Hedi Slimane favoured a narrow and tight cut. That is the cut on street today as well.
Young men are better fit for it usually. You need a slender build to have a chance to pull it off. These guys in Pitti Uomo are doing well.
Source: The Journal of Style in Florence
Luca Rubinacci in a linen jacket with low buttoning point. Normally he pairs the cut with roomy trousers but this day at Pitti Uomo in Florence he has chosen fairly slim linen trousers.
I think his cut, especially with his full cut trousers, has a resemblance to Armani of the 1980s and the late drape cut of the 1940s, but Luca Rubinacci’s cut is not exaggerated in the same way. He also has a different approach to colours, which he likes, evidently, and to textures. He is more a linen guy than a pioneer within shiny thin worsteds.
Photo: The Journal of Style
I’ve attended the Pitti Uomo fair in Florence for several years now, mostly to take street photos, but also to do a little business. Usually I spend two or three days in Pitti and Florence. This Summer it was a 20 hour visit at the capital of Tuscany.
From my perspective, which focuses on classic fashion, and less on street wear and heritage fashion, things look much the same compared to last Summer.
Many people and brands are repeating. The skimpy narrow trousers are there. A preference for short lightly constructed, unlined and very tight jackets dominates. Numerous double breasteds are to be seen. Bare feet in summer loafers and monks are common. Lots of colours and blending, for instance, jackets and tie with jeans and sneakers, although many omit the tie in the heat.
And, then we have the phone. It always rings in Pitti.
Photo Credit: The Journal of Style
Family wanted a couple of hours on the beach, which isn’t entirely me, and I decided to take the subway to 62 Street in Brooklyn, only 25 minutes way.
After a short walk in the heat, I came to bespoke tailor Ercole. I think he is the only real deal tailor in Brooklyn. He has an Italian background, and he has learned the craft from very early on, which is typical in his generation of Italian tailors.
I understood that Mr Ercole and an assistant are taking care of the Brooklyn workshop, while Mr Ercole’s son Frank runs their newer department in Manhattan.
With a cut-make-trim price of 2.500 USD for a two-piece suit, Ercole must me be one of the most budget friendly bespoke tailors in New York. I guess the location in Brooklyn makes the low price point possible. Could be that Ercole also uses the sewing machine a tad more than the top tailors in Manhattan. However, that I don’t know. I saw a machine stitched collar and machine stitched lapels on two jackets on display at Ercole’s but I didn’t inspect jackets or trousers any further. You will have to ask them, if you want to know about these details.
Ercole has nomourous cloth bunches in shop from the famous English merchants. Italian Loro Piana is there as well. Moreover, they stock lots of fabrics.
Ercole has a website, of course, and a Tumblr blog, if you want to know more about them.
Source: The Journal of Style
The charcoal suit has a reputation of being the most versatile suit. It is less demanding than a navy blue suit. You can hide in a charcoal suit.
The navy blue suit, in turn, is straight talk. The navy blue suit is for the man of action.
Source: The Journal of Style in Manhattan