Pitti Uomo has a strong collection of high-end ready-to-wear and made-to-measure. The firms apply many techniques from traditional tailoring, however the suits and jackets are made in a factory, not a real workshop. The most famous of those firms are perhaps Kiton, Brioni and Attolini.
Sciamat, run by the brothers Valentino and Nicola Ricci, is a new player in the category. The do real bespoke as well but ready-to-wear and made-to-measure are the core business. I mean, you don’t show up at Pitti Uomo, if your main activity is true bespoke.
Both Valentino and Nicola are very good at dressing. I know many find their puffed jacket shoulders silly, yet in terms of colours, cuts, textures, and patterns they always strike a great balance.
Orazio Luciano is another old friend in Pitti Uomo. The Napoli firm makes very fine ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits, mostly for the American and Eastern markets, I suppose. With prices over 3000 euros for a suit Orazio Luciano charge the same or even more than many bespoke tailors in Italy. Their advantage in relation to classic bespoke is accessibility and speed. Many busy well-off men in suits appreciate that type of service nowadays.
Photos: The Journal of Style
Orazio does fused suits as you should know. He disguises as tailoring what is not.
Well, it would surprise me, if his 3K and 4K suits are fused. I believe they are canvassed. That said he doesn’t deliver bespoke tailoring. That is clear. Kiton, Brioni, Attolini, Orazio Luciano etcetera only use some techniques from the bespoke world. The right word might be “industrial tailoring”?
While Sciamat’s offerings are very nice, they’re a good example why bespoke, classic menswear and fashionable approaches often don’t really work together. Their look was fresh when they came onto the secne but now it looks dated. Still, some of their itemas are very stylish and very Italian, which is great if you like it.
As for Orazio Luciano, I know one of the leading menswear retailers in Germany and he was quite displeased with his suit, especially in comparison to other brands like Partenopea and Stile Latino. The less is said about them, the better.