A Difficult Odd Jacket

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I didn’t think much about it. I just chose the cloth, a vintage Zegna from the 1980s. I loved it.

After the tailor had finished his job, trouble came: How should I pair the jacket with shirt, tie, and trousers? The sage green colour, and the large orange-brown-cream PoW checks are stunning, but demanding too. The jacket is picky.

The solution until now has been an off-white shirt, an orange wool challis tie, light grey flannel trousers, and brown shoes. Not sure, if I have made it yet. The other day someone suggested that I choose blue trousers with the jacket, and another one proposed light brown trousers.

I must admit I like the challenge. It is rewarding, if you succeed in taming a difficult odd jacket, or another intractable garment or accessory.

Photo: The Journal of Style

Bespoke With a Vintage Touch

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Vintage Alfred Alm double breasted suit.

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Vintage Stanley Peake glenchecks suit.

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Vintage Albert Thurston braces.

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Made to order Aubercy button boots.

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Bespoke Rubinacci cashmere jacket.

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The Copenhagen tailor Peter Undén gave a party on the occasion of christmas. Many sartorialists were there, some in vintage bespoke, others in their own bespoke garments.

Source: The Journal of Style

The venerable Tonik suiting

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The internet clothing fora produce small hypes. One of the latest is Dourmeuil’s Tonik suiting in mohair. Not the one made today, obviously, but the heavy Tonik from the 80s and before. That was a great, legendary cloth.

I wonder, though, if the new bespokesmen would really love the old Tonik, if they had it made up. I inspected it a few days ago. It is a scratchy bullet proof mean weave, not like the super soft fabrics nowadays designed for a generation grown up in t-shirts and jumpers.

Could be we should leave the old Tonik to men, who by experience know how to wear armor, for instance this wonderful 90 years old gentleman, Willy Mokjær, former president of the tailor’s guild in Denmark. He made the well-cut Tonik suit above for himself start of the 1980s.

“The price of it increased steeply in the 80s, and then it disappeared,” Willy Mokjær described the death of Tonik to me.

Source: The Journal of Style

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