The Solaro Fabric Story

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solaro fabric

Bepsoke suit made up from Smith Woollens’ Solaro fabric.

White man and the Solaro cloth

The Solaro fabric is a product of colonial man’s unsuccesful endeavors. Based on German studies Dr Sambon, an Italian born researcher connected to London School of Tropical Medicine, developed the fabric with the mill Ellis & Johns in beginning of the 20th Century. The idea was to create a garment that unlike past tropical clothing would protect the white man’s body against UV radition as well.

“Now that we know that the noxious element of the tropical sun is the actinic light, and Nature has protected the native by means of a colour-screen analogous to that which is used by photographers for the preservation of their sensitised plates, the white man should be able to adjust himself to the meteorological conditions of the Tropics almost as perfectly as the native . . . With this object in view, I endeavoured to produce a fabric composed of white and black, white and red, or white and orange threads woven in such a way as to present a wrap or upper surface of white colour and a weft or under surface of black, red or orange,” Dr Sambon wrote in The Journal of Tropical Medicine in 1907.

Sadly, it turned out that Dr Sambon’s invention had very little effect. In fact, solaro “was extremely uncomfortable and probably detrimental to health”, an American study concluded.

You can read the whole story in the article European Cloth and “Tropical” Skin (2009).

Spring and Summer fabric for bespoke

Nonetheless, the Solaro fabric was born, and it has become treasure in Spring and Summer for many men, who enjoy bespoke tailoring.

Today you’ll find Solaro in a gabardine twill weave and a herringbone weave. There are numerous shades, for instance red (olive effect), blue, and green.

Besides Smith Woollens I know Drapers carries Solaro cloth, some of it in cotton, I believe.

Another photo of yours truly in Solaro.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

A Gentleman’s Lookbook – A new Book by Bernhard Roetzel

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A Gentleman’s Lookbook Bernhard Roetzel and Torsten Grunwald

From A Gentleman’s Lookbook by Bernhard Roetzel

Yours truly in the book

I’m fond of Baron von Münchausen, who rescues himself from the swamp by pulling himself up by the hair. Yet, I will not review Bernhard Roetzel’s new book, A Gentleman’s Lookbook. The task is too difficult, since I take part in the book providing four photos. In other words, this post is just a short presentation of the book. The review I will leave to others.

A book for looking

Bernhard has written a few shorts texts for the book, but the book is a book is mainly for browsing classic style photos, not reading. Apart from Bernhard there are about 15 men, who “share their favourite looks”, as the back cover states, in the book. In comparison with Rose Callahan’s dandy books the attire that you find is more subdued, less dandified.
A Gentleman’s Lookbook Bernhard Roetzel and Torsten Grunwald

People from the blogosphere, for instance Sven Raphael Schneider of Gentleman’s Gazette, Simon Crompton of Permanent Style and Andreas Weinås (Instagram), are the guys, who have photos in the book.

You can buy A Gentleman’s Lookbook on Amazon and other webshops for about 15 euro.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Readers of Sartorial Notes Met in Copenhagen

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sartorial notes

Anders. Francesco Guida has made the suit. Camiceria Artigiana Carmen has made the shirt.

Like last year I gathered with a group of readers of Sartorial Notes. This time around we upgraded the event, and we went to Restaurant Palægade in the old part of Copenhagen. Kenneth, a reader, who imports the best American wine for fine restaurants in Copenhagen, including Geranium and Kong Hans, arranged the menu with Restaurant Palægade.

The Scandalous Butler

I had forwarded a dresscode stating “lounge suit” that most attendees choose to follow apart from Butler, who arrived in t-shirt and worn-out jeans. I know Butler a bit, he is player, so I expected it was a practical joke of his. Yet, he insisted that his ugly jeans were proper, and I had to deny him access until his was dressed in a lounge suit. After a while he gave up, and we could all sit down to a superb dinner.

Sartorial Notes snapshots from the sartorial event

sartorial notes

Jimmy in a glen check vintage suits.

Lasse in a striped English vintage suit.

sartorial notes

Kenneth, wine provider, in a bespoke linen suit by Francesco Guida.

sartorial notes

Jacob in a 3-piece bespoke suit from Guida.

sartorial notes

Disgorged sparkling wine for a start outside Restaurant Palægade.

sartorial notes

Iversen, the dandy, in a pink jacket by Francesco Guida.

sartorial notes

Butler joking in t-shirt and worn-out jeans.

sartorial notes

Jeppe in a bespoke linen jacket by Musella Dembech.

sartorial notes

The lawyers.

sartorial notes

Butler and yours truly friends again. Butler in a Steven Hithcock suit. I’m in a bespoke suit by Volkmar Arnulf.

The wine we had

  • 1990 Tirage late disgorged sparkling
  • 2014 Eyrie Vineyards Original vines Pinot Gris
  • 2014 J. Rochioli Russian River Valley Chardonnay
  • 2013 Paul Lato ”California” Pinot Noir
  • 2013 O’Shaughnessy Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
  • 2005 Williams Selyem Late Harvest Gewurztraminer

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Jacket with Patch Pockets ”a barchetta”

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Jacket with patch pockets

Bespoke jacket with patch pockets ”a barchetta”, by Florentine tailor Francesco Guida.

The web has put Neapolitan tailors into spotlight. The lightweight construction they carry out fits modern man, who has grown up in casual clothing. Moreover, the price of Italian tailoring down south is attractive.

Pockets like small rocking boats

Patch pockets “a barchetta”, pockets like small rocking boats, are one of those features on a Neapolitan jacket the internet connaisseur gives special attention.
On my last jacket from Francesco Guida (who comes from the south of Italy) I went for the design for the first time. The breast pocket became a patch pocket “a barchetta” too. Many people go for a normal hidden breast pocket together with two patch pockets on the front of the jacket skirt. I went all in. I think it works on a soft casual jacket like this one made up from W. Bill’s 390 grams shetland tweed. One has to be aware that patch pockets tend to stiffen the jacket’s front, so I would hesitate putting them on jackets of heavy and strong cloth.

Sports coat attire Numero 1

Jacket with patch pockets ”a barchetta”

Brown tweed jacket and grey trousers.

I pair the tweed jacket with patch pockets with soft grey cavalry twill trousers, also from Francesco Guida. I call this this attire Sport Jacket Attire Numero 1.
Usually, I prefer trousers with more width. Yet, cavalry twill is more resilent than most fabrics, so the trousers are still comfortable, when I sit down.

In regard to the cut I asked Francesco Guida for more jacket length, lower buttoning point and a bit more width. Shoulders are without wadding entirely. I’m quite satisfied. I will, though, discuss the width of collar with Francesco Guida next time I meet him. I think perhaps it could be tightened a tad.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

A Young Man has Chosen Bespoke Suits

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bespoke suits

Bespoke suits and handmade shoes. Jeppe in a double breasted charcoal suit made by Musella Dembech. Oxblood shoes from Jan Petter Myhre.

Proper clothing

When I ask Jeppe to describe his style, he says:

“In one word I would say “proper”. Maybe that sounds boring, however in regard to clothing “proper” works in several ways. It means that I care for fit and proportions. It also implies that I choose clothes that I can use on a daily basis. It should be suitable for bicycling, work, theatre going, playing with children, dancing, drinking wine, and more.”

Conservative but not boring

To many nowadays bespoke suits and handmade shoes are more than proper. They will categorize a bespoke style as weirdly refined and oldwordly. However, within the context of classic style and bespoke I get what Jeppe means. He doesn’t show off. He is very conservative in his combinations, though never boring.

bespoke suits

Fitting a coat with Francesco Guida.

Caught up by bespoke suits

I ask Jeppe how he got caught up by bespoke suits and clothing.

“In high school I wore skinny jeans like most other guys. I listened to The Strokes and White Stripes. Everyday, as soon as I got home, I pulled off my trousers. Then I could relax. One day I realized just how foolish my clothes was, and I decided to find clothes that fit me. When I studied in Paris I ordered my first bespoke shirt. Experiencing that I could decide for myself was a relief, and there was no way back for me.”

bespoke suits

Getting the design right.  Jeppe with Francesco Guida and his assistant Emilio.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

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