The web has put Neapolitan tailors into spotlight. The lightweight construction they carry out fits modern man, who has grown up in casual clothing. Moreover, the price of Italian tailoring down south is attractive.
Pockets like small rocking boats
Patch pockets “a barchetta”, pockets like small rocking boats, are one of those features on a Neapolitan jacket the internet connaisseur gives special attention.
On my last jacket from Francesco Guida (who comes from the south of Italy) I went for the design for the first time. The breast pocket became a patch pocket “a barchetta” too. Many people go for a normal hidden breast pocket together with two patch pockets on the front of the jacket skirt. I went all in. I think it works on a soft casual jacket like this one made up from W. Bill’s 390 grams shetland tweed. One has to be aware that patch pockets tend to stiffen the jacket’s front, so I would hesitate putting them on jackets of heavy and strong cloth.
Sports coat attire Numero 1
I pair the tweed jacket with patch pockets with soft grey cavalry twill trousers, also from Francesco Guida. I call this this attire Sport Jacket Attire Numero 1.
Usually, I prefer trousers with more width. Yet, cavalry twill is more resilent than most fabrics, so the trousers are still comfortable, when I sit down.
In regard to the cut I asked Francesco Guida for more jacket length, lower buttoning point and a bit more width. Shoulders are without wadding entirely. I’m quite satisfied. I will, though, discuss the width of collar with Francesco Guida next time I meet him. I think perhaps it could be tightened a tad.
Photography: Sartorial Notes