Oops, I’m posing in a double breasted bespoke blue suit again. This one is from Turin tailor Michele Mescia. It is a somewhat different creature than the bespoke blue suit with shirt shoulders. Mescia has made me a more roomy coat and wider trousers than the other Italian tailor, lapels are larger, and Mescia has attached an extra jigger button, so the skirt is firm enough to let the lapel roll to the lower row of buttons. Moreover, I think the coat is half an inch or so shorter.
For comparison, here is the blue DB suit that I showed at The Journal of Style in July:
Which suit is better on me? I can’t say, although the suits are quite different. My conclusion is that both work well. However, that is just my own view. Feel free to share your opinion.
Michele Mescia didn’t make a paper pattern for the suit. He drafted the suit parts on the cloth directly not using much else than Rock of Eye and a tape measure (Watch footage above). This is his usual method, also for old clients he claimed.
“Every suit is different.”
That approach wouldn’t work in a larger workshop with many tailors, I suppose. In a small workshop with altogether four-five people and the master doing all the drafting and cutting it seems more feasible.
Photos: The Journal of Style
In my opinion the last suit is better.
In the first suit lapels are too much narrow and gorge in not enough high.
I like the more broad lapels too.
Is a great suit.
P.S.
A final thought.
The DB show in july,with natural shoulders with narrow lapels and a more close fit seems from 20s,the last DB,with more roomy shoulders and large lapels and trousers from 30s.
In my opinion the suit from Mescia looks better. Speaking of the jacket, the wider peaked lapels fit much better with the proportions of your body. Additionally, the roll of the lapels make you look a bit taller, which is a nice side effect.
Lovely suits. Thank you for the post.
I think both look very good and the colour is excellent although i do prefer the Turin suit as the shoulder cut is more formal and therefore better suited to formal wear.
Both suits are nice. The main difference is that different buttoning gives a slightly different silhouette. The “July-suit” with higher buttoning will presumably give you a more pinched waist and is in my eyes more contemporary. I have DB suits with both and consider the ones with higher buttoning more “formal”, and suits like the your last one more “relaxed”. But they are both beautiful, and you are a lucky man owning two very nice suits. I say it’s a draw!
È piacevole ammirare la fulgida maestria del Sig. Mescia, un genio sartoriale con pochi eguali, oltre ad essere una splendida persona… Grazie per le tue splendide creazioni!
Con stima Andrea Marinaccio