Pitti Uomo style can include a bit funnel-shaped cigar, more specifically a Toscanello cigar, a cut in half Tuscan cigar, strong, invented for dukes and rakes in the 19th Century. When visiting the large fashion fair in Florence last week, I once again spotted the distinctive cigar.
Without doubt the Toscanello fits the mature man better than the youngsters, who can look too pretentious smoking it. Worse yet, their moms wouldn’t approve.
Photos: The Journal of Style
Four or five ago I bought a few deadstock meters of J. & J. Minnis’s Rangoon. I used the cloth to make a large curtain. Not long ago I realized the cloth would serve better as sartorial material than a curtain. So, some of the cloth has taken on a new life becoming trousers, a pair of light grey trousers.
They are very versatile during summer. I might combine them with a navy blue fresco jacket, slightly lighter than normal navy blue.
Or, I can match the trousers with my plaid summer jacket.
I’m certain that one could use the trousers with a brown or green summer jacket in the right shade (not to dark) as well.
Photos: The Journal of Style
There is a close connection between bespoke and the style of suit, shirt and tie. In other words, bespoke orders tend be very conservative.
Mads enjoys bespoke, yet he has moved beyond the suit. He has no need to reproduce old English fashion plates. In the photo he sports a peak lapel cashmere jacket made by Francesco Guida, and navy blue trousers made by Chris Kerr. He combines the bespoke garments with a long-sleeved white poloshirt and lightweight loafers. There is an Hermès silk handkerchief in the barchetta breast pocket. He wears a large signet ring on his left hand.
Photo: The Journal of Style
Lars in a bespoke Steven Hitchcock flannel suit.
Daniel in a flannel suit from a Sicilian tailor.
Historicially, two fractions in society have managed the suit: the bourgeoisie and the dandy. The bourgeoisie has been the standard-bearer of a subdued version of the suit. The dandy has pushed forward a loud version, save the very first dandies, that is, George Bryan Brummell et. al. The country squire has been in charge of tweed, corduroy and derby shoes – the English Country House Look (ECHL), as Bruce Boyer has coined traditional British country clothing.
Michael follows the tradition developed by Brummell, d’Orsay, and Wilde. He is in the dandy style suit wearing a DB flannel suit with violet chalk stripes, braces, a pink tie, a silk handkerchief, plaid socks, and cherry coloured loafers.
The slender cut with trousers “shivering” on the shoes looks Italian, and indeed it is – the suit is from Florentine tailor Francesco Guida. The suede loafers are by The Shoe Snob, the necktie by Hermès, and the handkerchief and the socks from Grunwald.
Photos: The Journal of Style