Another trip to London. Another walk down Savile Row.
This time around I said hello to Huntsman, Maurice Sedwell, and Kathryn Sargent, and then I dropped by Benson and Clegg in Princess Arcade.
Maurice Sedwell and The Savile Row Academy
Maurice Sedwell on Savile Row 19 is not only a well-established house on Savile Row. In 2008, the owner, Andrew Ramroop, started a tailoring school, which he calls The Savile Row Academy. I believe it is a somewhat more flexible education for young people, who would like to become cutters or coat makers on Savile Row, than the common apprenticeship system. Moreover, The Savile Row Academy offers further training for people, who has some experience as tailors.
Andrew Ramroop told me he has two bespoke offerings. There is the normal and very good Savile Row quality, and then he can make an entirely handmade suit, if the customers is prepared to pay for this “ultra bespoke” service.
The picture of Savile Row as being a man’s world has started to change. The vast majority of customers are still men, evidently, yet you meet many female coat makers and trousers makers today. Recently, female cutters have appeared as well. Kathryn Sargent is the better known. She opened her own shop on Savile Row 37 earlier this year.
Kathryn Sargent stressed to me that she tries to find a style and construction that supplement the specific person. Many tailors will tell you that, however I got the impression that Kathryn Sargent is very keen on the open proces trying to oppose her firm to the strong house style tradition on Savile Row.
Speaking of house style on Savile Row Huntsman is a famous example. I’m not sure, really, what makes a classic Huntsman coat today. Usually one says it is inspired by the long hacking jacket with center vent, and then it has a strong shoulder and a one button closure on the front.
One more famous Huntsman feature is the price, which is 1.000 GBP or so more for a suit than most tailors on The Row.
Benson & Clegg
In Piccadilly Arcade I found Benson & Clegg. They have tiny charming shop there with striped ties and lots of blazer buttons. The also have a tailoring workshop. In other words, you can order a bespoke suit from them. Tony Martin (standing at the doorstep) is apprentice at Benson & Clegg.
Photos: Sartorial Notes
Interesting, thank you. Good to hear a little more about K. Sargent. And what a stylish under cutter Emma is!
The last picture is marvellous. It shows clearly how comfortable, flattering and not stiff at all the look of trousers & waistcoat can be. It’s a clean and powerful look too, something many men are afraid of in this age of relativism, no?