Search Results for: zaremba

Pitti Uomo: Maciej Zaremba and Max Söderberg

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Maciej Zaremba displays the stile latino. He does it well. Especially, I like the colour combination. The tobacco suit, the sky blue shirt with soft collar points and the rhubarb red tie put inside the waistband makes up a well-balanced whole of shades.

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Max Soderberg of Engelska Herr in Malmo tells us a bit rules, and why we should be carefull with them. Max is a large fellow, who shouldn’t be wearing close fitting light-coloured clothing and a db jacket according to tradition.

Yet, exactly that style works for him. I think the secret is the length of jacket and trousers. Had they been any longer elegance would have vanished.

Photos: Sartorial Notes

Bespoke tailor Zaremba from Warsaw

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Warsaw is the home of several shoemakers, who handmake shoes to measure. You will also find a bunch of bespoke tailors of varying quality. Zaremba, though, seems like the real deal.  Located on the corner of Nowogrodzka and Kruzca, Zaremba provides bespoke suits and jackets following Italian and English tradition of fittings, handsewing, fine interlining and no fusing.

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Maciej Zaremba, a young man at 32, runs the family business. He took over in 2005, when his father died. Maciej employs four or five cutters and tailors.

I met Maciej in Florence in January. He is a pleasant fellow. He told me that he enjoys to keep an eye on fashions, and that he is very keen to bring Zaremba to speed with younger customers, without loosing the older ones, of course.

I believe the current price for a two-piece suit is around 2.000 Euros.

Source: The Journal of Style & Zaremba

Pitti Uomo 94 – Doppelgängers

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Pitti Uomo 94 had a strong presence from Japan. Two well-dressed men in a Tonik like blue suit and Solaro.

Trends at Pitti Uomo 94

I cannot claim that Pitti Uomo 94 presented something totally new to me. Cut, colours, patterns and accessories look as something that I’ve seen before.

There are of course tendencies like a small neckerchief, linen, cream colours and faded green.

You also see an ever increasing amount of sneakers.

In regard to the suit short trousers, bare ankles and suede loafers are still de rigeur. Perhaps trousers in some cases have become more roomy. There is a push for that on the catwalk, so maybe the street have started to pick it up a bit.

That said I enjoy to follow the show. The peacock outrange has eased off. People dress more like people now, although with a lot more attention to details.

I have a bunch of photos with me home. When I have processed them I will show them here. In the meantime you can find more photos at my Instagram account Sartorial Notes.

More photos from Pitti Uomo 94

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The Castillo brothers of Man 1924 at Pitti Uomo in Florence.

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The Zaremba team on the street.

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Berlin made-to-measure firm Maximillian Mogg in tuxedos at the Plaza Uomo event.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

Pitti Uomo 93 – The Most Important Menswear Trends

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Pitti Uomo 93. Maciej Zaremba in a inspiring belted slip-on overcoat in mocha corduroy.

A take on Pitti Uomo 93

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Oversized overcoat and duffle coat.

What is fashion depends on the eyes that look. So when I summarize what’s happening in men’s fashion at the Pitti Uomo 93 fair in Florence, it’s a perspective, a view with my classically oriented eyes. For your information.

Large slip-on overcoats

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Double breasted storm coat.

There are tendencies for more generous cuts. You notice the development in overcoats. In the sartorial department, I have noticed almost oversized overcoats, often with raglan sleeves, not unlike the big coats from the start of the 1990s. Pitti Uomo 93 in Florence documented the trend of big coats.

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Large camel hair overcoat.

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Ethan Newton in duffel coat and beanie knit hat.

Corduroy and Velvet

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Corduroy overcoat, earth tones and chukka boots.

Coats and overcoats in corduroy. Another trend in sartorial men’s fashion in the winter. I have thought myself of getting a corduroy coat made up. Corduroy is symbolic, though, referring to books, big furniture, art, and school teachers in the 1970s. The film director Wes Anderson illustrates a modern approach to corduroy and velvet.

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Erik Mannby in a green corduroy suit with a beanie on the top of his head.

Earth tones

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Erik Mannby.

Earth tones are a signifacant trend in sartorial menswear in winter. Pitti Uomo 93 was a showcase. There were many shades of brown and green there, both among the exhibitors at the fair and on those who visited the event. Earth colors influenced all components from pullovers and ties to jackets, coats and hats.

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Andreas in bottle green flannel trousers, shell cordovan shoes, brown tweed jacket, cream shirt, black knit tie and cognac coloured briefcase.

Sturdy shoes

Sneakers continue the march forward. However, leather shoes are still in use, luckily. There are many double sole shoes and brogue shoes in the winter.

Soft jackets

Soft jackets, which people in the trade confusingly call “deconstructed jackets,” continue their dominance. Unlike the slim fit fashion, which is about to be supplemented by more roomy cuts, I do not think the softly designed jackets get competition from structured jackets. On the contrary, you will probably see even more jersey jackets onwards.

Beanie knit hats

A beanie knit hat, the beanie, will not die. You also wear it with classic sartorial clothes, if it’s cold.

Felt hats

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As always Luca Rubinnaci was well-dressed at Pitti Uomo in Florence. He showcased earth tones in his attire as well.

If you do not carry a knit hat on your head, you could go for a felt hat with a good wide brim. They are also popular.

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Russell tweed jacket and brown pants.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

The Best Dressed at Pitti Uomo 92 – Part 2

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Pitti Uomo 92: Faiyaz Amlani and Erik Mannby in the patio at the launch of Pomella trousers.

Don’t trust fashion experts

Fresh photos from Pitti Uomo 92.

I notice that fashion experts, who participated in the event, can spot numerous trends. Honestly, I don’t always find their judgement trustworthy. You have to look at more seasons to find a development, I would say. Shoes like suede loafers and trainers, trousers with turn-ups and skimpy length, and fabrics like seersucker, linen Fresco and Solaro have been around, since I was at Pitti Uomo for the first time six years ago. I cannot remember not to have seen accessories such as bracelets and neckerchiefs.

And, that is pretty much the point about Pitti Uomo. It is a festival of classic clothing. Although new designs, fabrics and items appear at each fair, they appear within the the boundaries of classic menswear, that is, the lounge suit.

Butler and Giorgio Giangiulio


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Patrik Löf of Skoaktiebolaget

Gianluca Migliarotti

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Gianluca Migliarotti, film director, and now creator of Pommella trousers, wearing a bespoke olive linen suit.

Bernhard Roetzel and Butler

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Menswear author Benrhard Roetzel in a seersucker suit together with Butler, who sports a seersucker suit as well (from Steven Hitchcock), though of a wool-silk blend instead of cotton.

Roman Zaczkiewicz of Szarmant

Representative of Justo Giméno

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The teba jacket.

Yasuto Kamoshita of Camoshita

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Maciej Zaremba

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Maciej Zaremba, owner of the Zaremba tailoring house, in seersucker.

Check out the first batch of photos here.

Photography: Sartorial Notes

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