Pitti Uomo 93. Maciej Zaremba in a inspiring belted slip-on overcoat in mocha corduroy.
A take on Pitti Uomo 93
Oversized overcoat and duffle coat.
What is fashion depends on the eyes that look. So when I summarize what’s happening in men’s fashion at the Pitti Uomo 93 fair in Florence, it’s a perspective, a view with my classically oriented eyes. For your information.
Large slip-on overcoats
Double breasted storm coat.
There are tendencies for more generous cuts. You notice the development in overcoats. In the sartorial department, I have noticed almost oversized overcoats, often with raglan sleeves, not unlike the big coats from the start of the 1990s. Pitti Uomo 93 in Florence documented the trend of big coats.
Large camel hair overcoat.
Ethan Newton in duffel coat and beanie knit hat.
Corduroy and Velvet
Corduroy overcoat, earth tones and chukka boots.
Coats and overcoats in corduroy. Another trend in sartorial men’s fashion in the winter. I have thought myself of getting a corduroy coat made up. Corduroy is symbolic, though, referring to books, big furniture, art, and school teachers in the 1970s. The film director Wes Anderson illustrates a modern approach to corduroy and velvet.
Erik Mannby in a green corduroy suit with a beanie on the top of his head.
Earth tones
Erik Mannby.
Earth tones are a signifacant trend in sartorial menswear in winter. Pitti Uomo 93 was a showcase. There were many shades of brown and green there, both among the exhibitors at the fair and on those who visited the event. Earth colors influenced all components from pullovers and ties to jackets, coats and hats.
Andreas in bottle green flannel trousers, shell cordovan shoes, brown tweed jacket, cream shirt, black knit tie and cognac coloured briefcase.
Sturdy shoes
Sneakers continue the march forward. However, leather shoes are still in use, luckily. There are many double sole shoes and brogue shoes in the winter.
Soft jackets
Soft jackets, which people in the trade confusingly call “deconstructed jackets,” continue their dominance. Unlike the slim fit fashion, which is about to be supplemented by more roomy cuts, I do not think the softly designed jackets get competition from structured jackets. On the contrary, you will probably see even more jersey jackets onwards.
Beanie knit hats
A beanie knit hat, the beanie, will not die. You also wear it with classic sartorial clothes, if it’s cold.
Felt hats
As always Luca Rubinnaci was well-dressed at Pitti Uomo in Florence. He showcased earth tones in his attire as well.
If you do not carry a knit hat on your head, you could go for a felt hat with a good wide brim. They are also popular.
Russell tweed jacket and brown pants.
Photography: Sartorial Notes
Lose the shots of the guys with cigarettes, dangling in such oh-so sprezzatura fashion, from their fingers. Cigarettes are not fashionable, they are addictive, filthy killers. Surely, there must be plenty of photos you can feature that don’t include something that causes cancer.
Thank you Torsten. I especially like Andreas’ natural style and enthusiasm, no overdressing here.
Duffle coats are difficult to wear over jackets for a very practical reason. It takes some time to put them on as they have no lining. Therefore they do not drape well over a jacket, something one clearly can see in the pictures.
The polo coat looks like a vintage piece?
Being a non-smoker I hardly ever notice cigarettes, they’re a non-issue for me. To be honest I’d consider it worse if people were banned from street style pictures just because they are smoking, drinking wine or having tattoo’s, that wouldn’t reflect reality as it is.
Torsten, these are the people outside the actual menswear fair right, i.e. the “peacocks” that come to meet & greet similar addicts, not the professional sales/purchase people doing business inside?
I wonder what has become of Scott Schumann who is said to have started the Pitti craze with his blog?
Potter, I agree the Monty can be a bit rough and clumsy for a suit.
Most guys in the photos are there to promote themselves and a business as exhibitors, start-up or buyer.
Not sure if the polo coat is from vintage fabric. Deficult to get hold of.
I saw Schuman briefly. I still think it’s important for him to go there.