I’m wearing a sky blue shirt four out of five working days. It is not always a plain one. I like stripes too: pencil stripes and once in a while butcher stripes. Rarely, I choose a plain sky blue shirt in a smooth poplin weave. In fact, I only have one of that type in ...

Valentino Ricci of Sciamat communicates silently through his expression and attire to the English speaking clothing community. Sometimes he grips the word. I remember an entertaining Italy vs England match-up on youtube, in which he criticizes Jeremy Hackett’s padded suit. “Don’t hide your shoulders,” he states at one point to a slightly confused Jeremy Hackett. ...

Not long ago, I told a denim magazine: “Nowadays the social history of clothing items is less important. The class society, as we knew it, is not there to uphold a distinction between them. What is left, roughly speaking, are physical similarities and differences. For instance, I find that a pair of dark blue jeans can make a fine ...

A few pieces of Zegna summer jacketing from the 1970s. They are in the range of 260-300 grams, though not like modern fabrics in that weight class. These jacketings from the 1970s are based on thicker wool fibers and twist yarns, which make the cloth more crease-resistant than modern light weight fabrics. Moreover, the tailor ...

Concepts like ”drape” and ”manica a mappina” make little sense in Potsdam. “Perfection” and “harmony” seem more appropriate words. Romantics of tailoring will turn down the latter approach for being analytical. They prefer artistic nonchalance and a charming inaccuracy. Which is the better tailoring philosophy, I don’t know. But I know I am fond of ...