The other day Derek at the American blog Put This On compared three of my db suits. He showed how a much a difference cut and shoulders can make to the style expression. Read the comparison here.
The current post is another example on the significance of cut. Jeppe is in bespoke garments from Musella Dembech (Milan) and Francesco Guida (Florence).
The Dembech design above appears slightly larger overall than the Guida pieces below. The Dembech jacket has more room in it, and it is a little longer than the Guida jacket. The Dembech trousers are much wider. Shoulder constructions differ too, the Musella shoulders being more Northern Italian than the unpadded shirt shoulders from Guida.
I find it difficult to say, which is the better cut. Moreover, the different fabrics, models (SB and DB), and different accessories make comparison harder. You could perhaps conclude that the Dembech garments are more classic, whereas the Guida suit is more contemporary.
Some readers might have an opinion on the matter?
Photo: The Journal of Style
To my tastes, the Dembech wins every time.
Taking the point further, I think the ‘Neapolitan Look’ has been over hyped. It is great for a certain style and situation – essentially the style and climate of Naples, unsurprisingly – but its usefulness elsewhere is limited. As to the spala camice………..really! A shirt is a shirt and a coat is a coat. Don’t confuse the two.
I think the Dembech style has class and an overall sense of luxurius style, still being modern, wheter the Guida seems to me just one of the many. Starting from the trousers cut, and arriving to the shoulder point is just another world…really!
However if you also consider the linen DB with camichias style made by Dembech for him, it is another thing.