I don’t fancy the popular look of dress shirt with unbuttoned top button(s), while wearing a suit or jacket. It is a barbaric habit, literally, which counteracts the aim for subdued elegance.

If it is too warm for a tie or neckerchief, it is more refined to spread the shirt collar on the jacket collar in the tradition of Lord Byron, who opposed Beau Brummell’s white cravat. (Some shirts like the Hawaiian shirt are made with this type of “camp collar”.)

Willy Mokjær,  90 years old retired tailor and ex-president of the tailor’s guild in Denmark, shows how to do it. I met him again start of June at his former shop. Besides the Byron collar, Mokjær wears a sky blue striped linen-silk jacket, light grey worsted flannel trousers and brown moccasin loafers.

Naturally, Mokjær has made up jacket, trousers and cap himself. 20-30 years ago, though.

Source: The Journal of Style