A conservative blue suit calls for a woven tie, or, it did. Such strong relations between clothing items don’t exist anymore, if they have ever existed. A print tie or foulard tie can easily be paired with a traditional blue suit as well. The Italians are leading the way again. Photo: The Journal of Style in Florence

The odd vest is not a new fashion. In the 19th Century before male clothing turned all black, a garish vest combined with a solid black or dark frock coat and white trousers was a common view in the streets. Later, in the 1920s and 1930s, when the male wardrobe became soft, the odd vest ...

The suit has become globalized style. You’ll find, though, slightly different interpretations from region to region. For instance, I’ve noticed that black suits are common in the East, and Americans may wear button down shirts with business suits. The latter phenomenon I witnessed in Lower Manhattan close Wall Street a few weeks ago. A young ...

In the 1990s terrible grunge fashions and glamour ruled. The designer Hedi Slimane changed that by reviving the suit, I was once told. It is not that simple probably but it makes sense, when you hear that Hedi Slimane favoured a narrow and tight cut. That is the cut on street today as well. Young ...

Luca Rubinacci in a linen jacket with low buttoning point. Normally he pairs the cut with roomy trousers but this day at Pitti Uomo in Florence he has chosen fairly slim linen trousers. I think his cut, especially with his full cut trousers, has a resemblance to Armani of the 1980s and the late drape cut ...