In September a reader ordered a formal cashmere overcoat at Sartoria Ripense in Rome. He got his inspiration from an old Esquire image (see below). Esquire describes the overcoat as “a paddock coat”, but it is perhaps closer to a Victorian frock overcoat. The mysterious Sator has claimed that. In any case, the overcoat is impressive.
The reader wrote to me:
“Good evening, Mr author Torsten Grunwald.
You may have noticed that I did not show up at the party at Mr master tailor Peter Undén. It is not due to lack of desire, but just the fact that we are some, who take the classic wardrobe seriously! In other words, we do something about it, while others have fun, drink and enjoy themselves 😉
For several years I have dreamt about realizing the ultimate elegant formal overcoat. In my humble opinion that is The Paddock Coat as shown in the Esquire image.
In September I presented the project to my tailor, Andrea, who, despite a declared love for tailoring of the 1920s, had never been near a similar task. He agreed, though, after a long and loud discussion with tailors in the basement.
“When you come in December, I believe that you can have it with you home, if you can stay for three days,” Andrea told me.
“OK,” I said, “but no compromises, please.”
I came back in December, and I went to the final fittings. Andrea kept his promise. They made the coat, and what a marvelous coat, I must say. ”